Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos is the capital of the Lasithi region and the liveliest town in eastern Crete, set on the deeply indented Gulf of Mirabello. Its defining feature is Lake Voulismeni, a near-circular pool at the very centre of town, some 137 metres across and long rumoured to be bottomless, though in fact around 64 metres deep. A short channel, cut by French soldiers in 1907, links the lake to the sea, so that fishing boats and cafes gather around a body of water that sits almost in the streets. Ringed by tavernas and floodlit at night, it gives the town an unusually intimate, stage-set quality.

Beyond the lake, Agios Nikolaos spreads over low hills above a working harbour and a string of small beaches, among them Kitroplateia and the sandy Ammos and Almyros to the south. It grew into a resort from the 1960s and keeps a cosmopolitan, slightly chic air, with a marina, boutiques and a busy evening scene. The small Archaeological Museum and the folklore collection add cultural depth, while the tiny island of Agioi Pantes lies just offshore.

The town's greatest asset is its position. It makes the natural base for exploring the Gulf of Mirabello and the eastern coast, with boat trips running to the fortress island of Spinalonga and the smart resort of Elounda just to the north. Inland rise the mountains towards the Lasithi Plateau, while the coast road south leads towards Ierapetra and the quieter beaches of the far east. The Minoan site of Gournia, a remarkably complete Bronze Age town, lies a short drive along the bay.

Agios Nikolaos is about an hour east of Heraklion and its airport by the coastal highway, and is well served by intercity buses. With good hotels, easy connections and an appealing waterfront, it suits travellers who want a comfortable, sociable base with genuine local life rather than a purpose-built resort. It is at its best from late spring to early autumn, when the harbour cafes spill outdoors and the sea is warm.