Delos

Delos is a small, uninhabited island in the heart of the Cyclades, a short boat ride from Mykonos, and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. In myth it is the birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis, and for much of antiquity it was a sacred sanctuary and a thriving cosmopolitan port. At its height around 100 BC the island supported a population estimated in the tens of thousands and ranked among the wealthiest trading centres of the Mediterranean. Today the entire island is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site and an open-air museum visited as a day trip.

Boats depart from the Old Port of Mykonos Town, near Little Venice, with the crossing taking around 30 minutes; sailings run through the morning and return in the early afternoon. There are no hotels, no village and no overnight stays, only the ruins, a small museum and a modest cafe. The scale of what survives is remarkable. Visitors land beside the Sacred Harbour and walk up through the marble remains of temples, markets, houses and shrines.

The island's signature image is the Terrace of the Lions, a row of archaic marble beasts that once guarded the approach to the Sacred Lake where Leto is said to have given birth to Apollo; the figures on site are replicas, with the originals preserved in the museum. Nearby, the residential quarter preserves some of the finest ancient mosaics in Greece, among them the celebrated floor of the House of Dionysus. A climb up Mount Kynthos, the island's modest summit, rewards visitors with a sweeping view over the ruins and across to Mykonos and Rineia.

Exploring Delos takes two to three hours of walking over uneven ground with almost no shade, so early boats, sturdy shoes, water and a hat are essential. The site is normally closed on Mondays, and departures depend heavily on the wind, so it is wise to check the day's timetable and allow flexibility. For anyone with an interest in the ancient world, Delos is the standout excursion of the central Cyclades and the finest counterpoint to Mykonos next door.