Evros Delta

The Evros Delta lies at the very edge of Greece, where the river that marks the border with Turkey fans out into the Thracian Sea in a broad expanse of brackish lagoons, freshwater marshes, saltflats, reedbeds and low islets. It is one of the most important wetlands in Europe, protected under the Ramsar Convention since 1974 and designated a National Park in 2007, and for anyone interested in birds it is among the finest destinations in the country.

The delta's reputation rests on its extraordinary birdlife. Around 320 species have been recorded here, more than two-thirds of all the birds ever seen in Greece, and the site is the country's single most important refuge for wintering waterbirds. In the cold months tens of thousands of geese, ducks, waders and flamingos gather on the lagoons, watched over by white-tailed and other eagles; spring and autumn bring waves of migrants passing along this major flyway. Reeds, tamarisk and open water shelter herons, egrets, pelicans, terns and much besides.

Exploring the delta takes a little planning, as parts of it lie within a controlled border zone. The visitor centre near Loutros and Traianoupoli, west of the river, is the place to begin, offering information, permits where needed and guided boat and jeep excursions into the accessible areas. From hides and tracks along the western lagoons, patient watchers can take in the sheer scale of the place and the density of its birdlife.

Beyond the birds, the delta is a landscape of quiet, elemental beauty, its horizontals of water, reed and sky broken only by fishing boats and the occasional herd of water buffalo. It is a fragile environment, sensitive to disturbance, and visitors are asked to keep to marked routes and heed local guidance.

The delta lies just east of Alexandroupoli, the natural base, with the visitor centre a short drive away. Winter is the classic season for sheer numbers of birds, while spring migration brings variety and gentler weather. A half-day guided excursion is enough for a first taste, though keen birdwatchers will happily give it far longer.