Lesvos

Lesvos, sometimes written Lesbos, is the third-largest of the Greek islands and feels almost like a small country, with distinct regions separated by mountains, vast olive groves and two great gulfs that bite deep into its coast. Less polished than the classic holiday islands, it rewards curious travellers with authentic villages, rich traditions and landscapes that range from lush and green to strikingly volcanic.

The handsome capital, Mytilene, wraps around a harbour beneath a Byzantine castle, its grand mansions and lively market hinting at a prosperous past. In the north, the stone village of Molyvos (Mithymna) tumbles down to a fishing harbour under its own hilltop castle and is among the most photogenic spots in the Aegean, with the nearby thermal springs at Eftalou a soothing bonus.

Lesvos is famous above all for two products: olive oil, pressed from millions of trees across the island, and ouzo, the anise spirit distilled around the southern town of Plomari, where distillery visits and tastings are a highlight. The west of the island reveals a different face entirely, a semi-arid volcanic landscape holding the Petrified Forest, a UNESCO Global Geopark where 17-to-20-million-year-old tree trunks lie fossilised where they fell. Nearby, the pilgrimage village of Agiasos and the birthplace of the poet Sappho add further layers.

The island is at its best from late spring to autumn. April and May bring wildflowers and the arrival of migrating birds that make Lesvos one of Europe's finest birdwatching destinations. June and September pair warm seas with quiet beaches, while summer is hot but far less crowded than the Cyclades. Even in August the mountain villages stay cool and shaded.

Getting here is easy by North Aegean standards. Mytilene airport handles domestic and seasonal international flights, and ferries connect the port with Piraeus, Thessaloniki, Chios and neighbouring islands. Given the island's size, a hire car is essential to explore its scattered highlights at a relaxed pace over several days.