Marmari

Marmari is the main sea gateway to the south of Evia, a small port and resort curled around a sheltered crescent bay. Ferries from Rafina, the busy port east of Athens, dock here after a crossing of about an hour, making Marmari the first taste of the island for most travellers heading to Karystos and the wild southern coast.

Its name comes from the Greek for marble, a reminder that this corner of Evia has been quarried since antiquity, and the whitish stone still turns up in walls and terraces around the town. Marmari itself is modest and low-key, with a working fishing harbour, a tidy seafront of tavernas and cafes, and a scatter of rooms and small hotels rather than large resorts, so it keeps the unhurried feel of a Greek family holiday town.

The reason to linger is the coast. Sandy beaches spread on either side of the bay, the best known being the long sweep of golden sand to the south-west, sometimes called the Great Sand beach, with shallow, clear water that is good for children. The town's exposed position catches reliable summer winds, and the beach at Megali Ammos in particular has become a favourite with windsurfers and kitesurfers. Small coves and quieter strands continue along the shore towards the settlements beyond.

Behind the town the land rises quickly towards Mount Ochi, so Marmari also works as a low-key base for walkers, and it is only a short drive from the livelier centre of Karystos with its castles, museums and mountain trails. Fresh fish, calm bays and easy access from Athens are the essence of the place.

Marmari suits travellers who want the beaches of southern Evia without a resort atmosphere: arrive on the ferry, settle into a room by the water, and spend your days between the sand, the sea breeze and the taverna table.