Milos

Milos is a volcanic island in the south-western Cyclades whose whole character is written in rock and colour. Millennia of eruptions and mineral deposits have left a coastline unlike any other in Greece — cliffs streaked white, ochre, rust and grey, and more than seventy beaches, many reachable only on foot or by boat. It was here, in 1820, that a farmer unearthed the Venus de Milo, the armless marble goddess now in the Louvre.

The island's most photographed spot is Sarakiniko, a stretch of smooth, blinding-white volcanic rock on the north coast that looks more like the surface of the moon than a beach, its curves dropping into a narrow turquoise inlet. Almost as famous is Kleftiko on the remote south-west coast, a cluster of towering white sea stacks and caves once used by pirates, accessible only by boat trip from Adamas.

Life centres on two towns. Adamas is the busy port, lined with tavernas and dive shops, while Plaka, the hilltop capital, offers narrow lanes, a Venetian castle and one of the best sunset views in the Cyclades. Nearby, the old fishing settlements of Klima and Mandrakia are known for their syrmata — brightly painted boathouses cut into the rock at the water's edge. History runs deep too, from the extensive early Christian catacombs — among the most important in Greece — to a well-preserved ancient theatre near Trypiti, close to where the Venus de Milo was found.

Milos also makes a fine base for the water itself. Kayak and sailing trips trace the indented coastline, the warm, sheltered seas of the gulf are ideal for beginners, and the fishing villages serve the day's catch straight from the boats.

Milos has a small domestic airport (MLO) and is linked to Piraeus by ferry, the fastest boats taking around three hours. A hire car or a boat tour is close to essential, as the finest beaches are scattered and often unsigned. Warm, calm seas make late spring to early autumn ideal; give the island three or four days to reach its coves and still have time to simply drift.