Mount Athos

Mount Athos — Agion Oros, the Holy Mountain — is the easternmost of Halkidiki's three peninsulas and unlike anywhere else in Europe. A self-governing part of the Greek state, it forms an Orthodox Christian monastic republic that has kept its own rhythm of prayer and seclusion for more than a thousand years. Along its 50-kilometre length live around 2,000 monks in twenty ruling monasteries, together with smaller sketes, cells and hermitages, all beneath the marble pyramid of the peak of Athos, which rises sharply to 2,033 metres above the sea at the peninsula's tip.

The community is governed from the small capital of Karyes by the Holy Community, a council of representatives from the twenty monasteries. Many of the great houses — among them Great Lavra, Vatopedi and the cliff-clinging Simonopetra — are treasuries of Byzantine architecture, frescoes, icons and manuscripts, still lived in much as they were centuries ago. Life follows the old Julian calendar and, in places, Byzantine reckoning of the hours.

Athos is best known for the avaton, the ancient rule that forbids women from setting foot on the peninsula, in dedication to the Virgin Mary. Male pilgrims may visit, but only with a permit called the diamonitirion, arranged in advance, with a limited number issued each day. Most sail from the small port of Ouranoupoli to the arrival harbour at Dafni, then continue on foot or by monastery vehicle. A visit is a pilgrimage rather than a holiday: guests share the monks' simple meals, sleep in guest quarters and rise for long night services.

For everyone else — and for women in particular — the mountain is experienced from the water. Sightseeing boats leave Ouranoupoli through the season and sail along the wooded south-west coast, keeping the regulation distance of about 500 metres offshore while the monasteries rise dramatically from the rocks above. It is the only way most travellers, and all women, will see this closed world.

Athos sits at the far edge of Halkidiki, reached by road from Thessaloniki to Ouranoupoli. Spring and autumn suit pilgrimage best, while cruise boats run mainly through the warmer months. Pilgrims should plan permits weeks ahead; day visitors need only join a boat from the port.