Nafplio

Nafplio sits on a slim promontory on the eastern shore of the Argolic Gulf, roughly two hours by road from Athens and a short drive from the great ancient sites of the Argolid. In 1829 it became the first capital of the newly independent Greek state, and the young republic's first governor, Ioannis Kapodistrias, took up office here. That brief moment of national importance left the town with a poise it has never lost.

The old town is the reason most visitors come. A grid of narrow marble-paved lanes runs between neoclassical facades, shuttered mansions and bougainvillea-draped squares, opening onto the wide cafe-lined expanse of Syntagma Square. Everything is walkable, and the pleasure lies simply in wandering, pausing for a coffee or an early evening drink as the light turns gold on the water.

Three fortresses define the skyline. High above the town stands Palamidi, a vast Venetian citadel completed in the early 18th century and reached by a stair of nearly 900 steps, or by road; its bastions give sweeping views over the gulf. Below it, the older Akronafplia occupies the rocky headland, while out in the bay the photogenic islet fortress of Bourtzi, built by the Venetians in the 15th century to guard the harbour, seems to float on the sea.

Nafplio also makes an unbeatable base. Mycenae, Epidaurus and ancient Argos are all within easy reach, so travellers often settle here for several nights and take day trips into the surrounding countryside of vineyards and citrus groves. Closer to hand, the sandy beach at Karathona and the small town swimming spot at Arvanitia give a place to cool off.

Come for the food as much as the history: the Argolid is orange country, and local tavernas lean on fresh fish, regional wine and syrupy sweets. Spring and autumn are the loveliest seasons, when the streets are warm but uncrowded and the whole town feels made for slow evenings.