Plakias

Plakias sits on the south coast of Crete, in the Rethymno regional unit, roughly 35 kilometres south of Rethymno town by a scenic road that drops through the dramatic Kourtaliotiko gorge. Once a small fishing anchorage that grew into a resort only from the 1960s, it remains a low-key, walkable village strung along a long crescent bay facing the open Libyan Sea, backed by high bare mountains that give the setting a rugged grandeur.

The village itself is modest and friendly, a single seafront line of tavernas, cafes, rooms and small hotels rather than a sprawl of high-rise resorts. The main beach is a broad stretch of coarse sand and shingle, often brushed by afternoon winds that draw windsurfers, while a string of quieter coves lies within walking distance. Just east, the sheltered sandy bay of Damnoni and its smaller neighbours offer calmer swimming, and to the west the palm-shaded, clothing-optional cove of One Rock and others reward a short walk.

Plakias makes an excellent walking base. Footpaths climb to the pretty hill villages of Myrthios, with its wide views over the bay, and Sellia, while longer routes lead through gorges and olive groves. The famous palm-fringed lagoon of Preveli, where a river meets the sea below a historic monastery, lies a short drive or boat trip east and is one of the south coast's signature sights. The Kourtaliotiko and Kotsifos gorges, both spectacular drives, frame the approaches to the village.

With its unhurried pace, good tavernas and easy access to a cluster of beaches, Plakias suits travellers who want sun, swimming and walking rather than nightlife and crowds. It has long attracted independent visitors, including a loyal following of returning walkers and a well-known hostel scene, and it stays relaxed even in high summer. Late spring and early autumn are ideal, when the sea is warm, the hills are still green or freshly cooled and the beaches are at their quietest.