Schinoussa

Schinoussa is one of the smallest of the inhabited Small Cyclades, set in the channel between Kato Koufonisi and Iraklia, south-east of Naxos. With a permanent population of a couple of hundred, it is a place of low hills, wide bays and drystone terraces, largely bypassed by mainstream tourism and all the more appealing for it. Ferries dock at the little harbour of Mersini on the north coast; a short climb above it sits the island's capital.

The Chora, also called Panagia, runs along a breezy ridge with views over the surrounding sea and islands, its whitewashed houses lining a single main street of tavernas, cafes and small shops. A third hamlet, Messaria, lies a short walk inland, and together the settlements make up the whole of the island's community. Distances are short, and Schinoussa is easily and best explored on foot along the old paths that thread between the villages and down to the coast.

What Schinoussa lacks in size it makes up for in beaches. The indented coastline hides a string of sheltered bays, among them Tsigouri and Almyros within easy reach of the Chora, and more distant coves such as Gerolimionas and Psili Ammos that reward a longer walk with sand, clear water and near-solitude. The island is exposed to the summer winds, so there is nearly always a sheltered shore to be found on one side or another. Ruins from classical and Roman times survive in the interior, a reminder that these quiet islands were settled in antiquity.

There is no nightlife to speak of and little to do beyond swim, walk and eat, which is exactly what draws people here. Meals are simple and local, taken in the Chora as the evening breeze picks up, and the pace never rises above a stroll. Schinoussa suits travellers looking to disconnect entirely, and it slots naturally into a slow tour of the Small Cyclades alongside Koufonisia, Iraklia and Donousa.