Thymaina

Thymaina is a small, rocky island in the eastern Aegean, lying immediately west of Fournoi, of whose municipality it forms part. With an area of only around ten square kilometres and fewer than two hundred permanent residents, it is one of the least-visited inhabited islands in the whole sea, a place where daily life still turns entirely on fishing and the boat. For the traveller willing to seek it out, it offers something increasingly rare: an ordinary Greek island going quietly about its business, almost untouched by tourism.

Almost everyone lives in the main village, also called Thymaina, a compact cluster of white houses rising from a small harbour on the sheltered channel that separates the island from Fournoi. A second tiny hamlet, Keramidou, lies elsewhere on the coast. There are no resorts, no nightlife and only a handful of simple tavernas and rooms; the rhythm of the day is set by the fishing boats going out and the ferry coming in. It is, above all, a working island rather than a holiday one.

What brings the occasional visitor is the sheer peace, the clear water and the sense of genuine remoteness. Small beaches and coves ring the coast, reached on foot or by boat, and the swimming is superb in the clean, protected channel. The island's fishermen supply excellent fresh fish and seafood, and a meal at the harbour, watching the boats, is the essence of a visit. Walkers can climb the bare hills for views across to Fournoi, Ikaria and Samos.

Because it is so small, Thymaina is usually visited as a short hop or day trip in combination with Fournoi, to which it is closely linked, though a night or two rewards those who truly want to disconnect.

Go to Thymaina for solitude, honest fish tavernas and a glimpse of island life at its most pared-back. Summer brings the calmest seas and the most reliable boats; there is little to do but swim, walk and slow down.