Varkiza

Varkiza sits at the southern, more relaxed end of the Athens Riviera, about twenty-five kilometres from the city where the built-up coast begins to give way to open hills. Its wide, sheltered bay of clear water and pale sand has long made it a favourite family beach for Athenians, less polished than Glyfada or Vouliagmeni but easier-going for it.

The centre of activity is the bay itself. A large organised beach, Varkiza Resort, spreads along the shore with loungers, pools, restaurants and a busy calendar of summer events, while free public stretches sit alongside it for those who prefer a towel on the sand. The bay's steady breezes make it one of the better spots near Athens for windsurfing and other watersports, and the shallow, gently shelving water suits children well.

Behind the beach, low-key tavernas and cafes line the streets, serving fresh fish and grilled meats to a mostly local crowd, and a small harbour adds a handful of fishing boats and waterside tables. The mood is unhurried, more neighbourhood seaside town than resort, and prices tend to be gentler than at the smarter suburbs up the coast, which is much of the appeal for the Athenian families who return here summer after summer.

Varkiza also marks a natural staging point. Beyond it the coast road runs on past rocky coves and small beaches towards the temple at Cape Sounion, making the town a convenient last stop for a swim before the drive to the headland, or a base for exploring the wilder southern tip of Attica.

Reached by bus from central Athens, Varkiza is at its best from late spring to early autumn, when the beach is open and the sea warm. Summer weekends bring day-trippers from the city, but midweek it keeps the calm, family feel that sets it apart from the livelier resorts to the north.